I’m always going to be biased toward Belstaff, simply because the aesthetic is so similar to mine. Blame it on the fact that the label favors men’s fashion and design (and tends to produce mostly menswear.) The clash between stronger tailoring and loose draping epitomizes my feelings toward clothes. There’s cohesion in the juxtaposition, and Belstaff pulls it off wonderfully.
As I sit and stare at my Peter Pilotto robot tights I bought several years ago, I realize how much he progressed. His prints are still ingenious and function on the basis of technology and symmetry, but things look so much more organic! I’m not sure if I buy into the Sixties vibe, but the slim silhouettes look so enticing! My favorite has to be the black and neon green top with the black pencil skirt. Also, that trench! And the cutout black sweater with neon green underlay! And what about that opening jacket with luscious cream neoprene overlaying a design of pink faux fur? I guess I buy into it, after all.
Leave it to Hunter Boots to supply me with endless ways to keep dry in the midst of waterslide heaven. Two words: heels and wedges. Several high-heeled classic wellies paraded down the runway, promptly succeeded by an even cooler wellie wedge. Then there are the clothes: impeccably constructed outerwear and separates with a flair for utilitarianism. The all gray knit ensemble looked cozy and unexpected with the horizontal ribbing. Puffer jackets got an update with cinched waists and faux fur.
No! This Giles collection makes my inner Victorian era girl so damn giddy! Look at those leather 3/4 length leggings…with BOWS! And oh my Gawd, the patent leather coat with those shoulders! And then more bows! In fear of breaking the Shift and 1 key on my keyboard, I will further refer to the period. This collection kills it for me. It’s the epitome of all that is spectacular in my period drama obsessed world. And just when you thought it was all black and white, there’s this mind-blowing anachronistic multi-color print that makes you wonder if you’re wearing too many colors (you’re not.)
While most complained about the inability to see Thomas Tait‘s clothes during the runway presentation, Tait’s message was loud and clear. He wants you to look specifically at the clothes and focus your attention on one thing at a time. And when you do it that way, things do become clearer (I promise, I’ve been trying that approach with every runway show.) You begin seeing the smaller details and the intricacies, like the gathering at the waist, or the way a print shifts colors. And when you see the pieces individually, it’s easier to place the looks outside of the runway onto real people. Tait’s and many other designers’, survival hinges on the ability to get people wearing the pieces and see the art without any insecurity or fear.
That cream sweater at Huishan Zhang is to die for! I’m a sucker for a good cream sweater. While lace attempted to ruin my experience (once again, not a fan of copious lace unless it’s my undies), I love the great coats and intricately designed mesh dresses.
So, totally no secret that Christopher Kane wanted to ooze sex here. Aside from the last several very literal interpretations, the pieces were beautifully organic and on point with the message. Luscious velvet draped beautifully while the electrifying see-through dress looked like the most confident innocence.
The silhouettes at Osman were rock solid. And by rock solid I mean entirely fluid and flattering. Winning piece? A perforated wrap jacket that looked like neoprene, except a lot more fun.
Burberry Prorsum‘s iconic trenches, make way for the Burberry iconic ponchos! Following the trail from blanket shawls, this season’s patchwork-heavy fringed ponchos will most likely be seen on the influential in the next few months. Those aside, I found the heavily embellished and mirrored pieces incredibly fun. I mean, this stuff catches so much light you don’t even need reflectors for your shoot!
Barbara Casasola‘s collection was not only fun, but extremely wearable and easy on the eyes. The meticulously pleated floor-grazing skirt and a silky loose elongated top epitomized the set. All attention was on the detail and the movement of the clothes. The beautiful pleats alone make me buy into it!
Erdem is such a textural journey! The flawless rich fabric changes on the outerwear this season epitomizes statement pieces without any cheap thrills. Another favorite is the raw, unfinished edge on many of the pieces, especially the heavier fabric options. And that ingenious closing dress! It was a flawless transition from a body hugging ribbed sweater into a weightless silk bottom.
In a reliable womanly spirit, Roksanda sent a lineup of form-fitting silhouettes, flared skirts and cinched waists. You can’t be color shy when considering Roksanda Illinic’s designs. The bright hues – royal blue, soft coral, burgundy, pastel pink – remain faithful to her aesthetic. While I wouldn’t typically choose an acrylic swirl, Roksanda makes it work well on her clothes. Couple it with luxe fabrics like silks and raw-edged twill, and you have masterpieces like the opening number: an ankle-grazing silhouette encircled with a broad metal buckle. This collection should be called, “Nataliya’s second closet.”
Aside from the insane techniques Mulberry used this season, they generously included my favorite silhouettes – loose and tailored. The plaid gradient coat seems like it can fit with virtually any outfit. An all gray pullover and skirt almost seamlessly transitions into an office environment without looking frumpy.
While I’m all for nature, the acid green leaf motif at Antonio Berardi didn’t make an impact on me. The silhouettes and architectural detailing were bomb though! My favorite pieces happened to be all black (surprise surprise), such as the multi-tier collar coat. All lace gold/black/blue ensemble surprisingly caught on, and obviously the slew of black architectural masterpieces drew me into the collection like Alice falling down the rabbit hole. The gold-encrusted pieces at the end finally sealed the deal for me: this is awesome.