Stella McCartney knows how to keep it cool. The eco-friendly designer unleashed flowing loose silhouettes in a faded and subdued palette. Drawstrings needled through the silky ensembles in her signature way, and cozy knits wrapped around the bodies while maintaining a sleek personality. A series of patchwork dresses managed to remain restrained by playing off on similar sized patterns, small enough to blend into a cohesive image when viewed from further away.
Chitose Abe is captivating at her ability to mix and match fabrics and individual design elements. Guipere lace flowed effortlessly into military-style tailored pieces. In fact, military style is what anchored the collection, down to the military-green color. Elsewhere, naval academy members would rejoice at the white jackets with striped sleeves. Micro-florals capped off the show, giving an easier vibe with more relaxed silhouettes. Chitose Abe succeeded again at providing a sophisticated, accessible and wearable collection!
Giambattisa Valli referenced architecture and industrial design to find inspiration for his spring line. His expertise is producing clothes with a young feel. Case in point: his Giamba line. For the Valli show, he touched back to youthful but sleek silhouettes, complete in soft colors and prints hinting at Japanese inspiration. The shift dresses and flared trousers lent an early ’70s vibe to a collection that otherwise looks very modern.
Yiqing Yin wanted to play with printmaking, and her play-time resulted in some beautiful prints. She achieved the results by overlaying chalk drawings one on top of another until they formed spontaneous patterns. She then applied these prints, alongside a few others, on top of silk and denim pieces, both structured and flowing, for an ethereal effect. The clothes had a loose vibe, inviting both origami-like folds and billowing fabrics into a harmony.
The ocean waves rippled through the gowns parading down the Elie Saab runway. Beautiful tranquil shades sparkled with hints of orange and yellow, as if reflecting the setting sun. Flowing dresses in varying shades of teals and blues received treatment from delicate lace insets. And all throughout, the casual monochrome attire brought the mood back to land. Despite being powerful and covetable, the difference between the land-based and the sea-worthy pieces was the difference between night and day. And Saab knows his nights well, his evening-wear making the ultimate splash.
Fausto Puglisi is energetic and optimistic, injecting his positive outlook into his clothes. He’s a solid example of what happiness and positivity can produce: at the very least, some very stunning clothes! Bold colors and confident silhouettes spelled mega-drama.
Kate Bush is a popular lady this season. She served as inspiration for Celine’s line, and unsurprisingly also found her way into Veronique Branquinho’s heart. Veronique chose to keep things gentle, feminine and unraveling. She captured the “beauty of unfinished things” with sudden shifts mid-piece and off-balance details, such as tank top strap features.
Julie de Libran debut collection for Sonia Rykiel was sweetness and full of French ease. Going back to the roots of the label, she incorporated updated stripes into her feminine pieces. A youthful spirit reigned as silhouette after silhouette walked out in cropped tops, shorts drawstring trousers and immaculate overalls.
Hedi Slimaine knows rock’n’roll well, just look up his front-row lineup at Saint Laurent. Rock chic aside; his runway show told the story of a girl living in the fast lane. She asks herself if this looks right, then adds a studded belt and a leather jacket and leaves out to hitch a ride elsewhere, feeling complete. Slimaine, by poking at retro references, just invented a glam grunge that isn’t about ‘cool’ girls. It’s about the real girls- the ones that truly live the grunge life, but want to be something else. The pretense is stripped, leaving the girl exposed despite the get-ups. Maybe that’s where the Robert Heinecken inspiration comes in.
Wolfgang Joop’s spring line invited surrealism and hard-knock reality to melt into a sublime collection. Whimsical prints adorned loosely tailored pieces. Meanwhile, shimmering metallic suits looked fluid and modern. Joop expertly combined patterns, such as in the checkered wrap dress, to infuse the line with discordant harmony.