J JS Lee
A beautiful floral motif ruled this fluid and feminine collection. A subdued color scheme of black and white saw a blue pattern with pops of light pastel numbers. Lee played with a variety of dress lengths; drop waist dresses with hemlines ranging from short to tea length, as well as dresses with a shorter hemline in front and longer in back. The result is a beautiful, sophisticated collection that also has youth appeal.
For her debut collection, Faustine Steinmetz introduced a twist on denim by showing pieces made from recycled denim. This ultra-deconstructed and re-constructed approach produced soft cob-web looking layering that had a gentle appearance despite the structuring.
Gentle organza layers and intricate cord trims fused to form dress bodices that stunned at the Bora Aksu show. A calm palette comprising of blues, whites and blacks lent a strong feel to the clothing with gentler elements
Neutral colors and no-nonsense loose silhouettes were the bones of the collection inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe’s personal style. Gathered hems and miniature floral print provided a touch of eccentricity and playfulness to the otherwise modern and masculine attire.
Filippo Scuffi, creative director at Daks, chose to veer the collection in a different direction this season. Traditionally known for the famous house checks, Scuffi chose to focus instead on freshening up the youth appeal by introducing pieces with softer features. The inspiration this season is the Royal Opera House, and Scuffi focused on a “dreamy, feminine, romantic, sophisticated” feel. The pieces indeed looked dreamy in a lavender palette pitted against the stark contrast of dark hues. Ethereal quality pieces layered in an ostrich feather reminisced of swan costumes re-imagined with sophistication.
Athletically-inspired attire at Jean-Pierre Braganza focused around a graphite palette of blacks, whites and grays. Fluid geometric prints on several pieces enhanced the loose silhouettes without overtaking the construction. Structured tops and blazers with emphasized shoulders provided a pleasant contrast to the more fluid bottoms and dresses.
Amanda Wakeley chose to stick to a mono-chromatic theme, introducing a parade of whites in feminine silhouettes. Gentle draping, cinched high waists played well together. Deep slits, kimono jackets, rolled up pant cuffs added an edgier element.
With their debut LFW collection, Delaney and Kim Trager unveiled playful silhouettes with punchy color. Several pieces accentuated by frills are a bit more forgettable than the clever color use and geometric print.
Jamie Wei Huang
Playful saddle bags adorned modern silhouettes.
A celestial color scheme joined whimsical billowing silhouettes played on futuristic notes in Min Wu’s collection.
McQ plays on the concept of crumbled foil and denim prints with a glam rock chic factor. A tartan print made an appearance alongside see-though black items, cleverly evoking ’90s grunge.
’60s silhouettes in mint green and ocean blue tones were the primary presentation pieces. Babydoll dresses and short hemlines matched a flirty, girlish vibe reminiscent of ’60s London youth.
A futuristic rave overtook the runway at the Fyodor Golan show. Colorful babydoll dresses and sculptural silhouettes were dominant. At times, it seemed like the adaptability to the streets factor was low, but there were several pieces that can be worn with more ease than the peeling dress.
Color blocked pieces with athletic inspiration paraded at Raeburn’s runway show. The looks comprised of loose silhouettes in a pink, white, gray, black and olive palette. Many of the pieces were constructed out of fabric from fighter-pilot suits mixed with silk organza. An artistic marbling print on several pieces lent an urban streetwear vibe fitting for cool youth.; while the olive weave toward the end felt a bit out of place and overthought in an otherwise solid collection.
Inspired by Veruschka, Daniela Felder rolled out groovy silhouettes that looked refreshingly modern. The elements of hippie era showed themselves in flared sleeves, bell-bottom pants, metallics and plenty of sheer chiffons. A cool girl vibe quickly emerged with leathers juxtaposing against fun prints, like the black/aquamarine pseudo-leopard print. Lurex capped off the show in a festive throw-back to the glamour era.
Ming Pin Tien
Loose silhouettes and modest hemlines dominated Ming Pin Tien’s show. The black and white palette, with the exception of two pool blue pieces, let the precise cuts and small details like lattice embellishments speak for the clothing.
Origami folds and Far East structural elements stood along-side more modern takes on silhouettes such as a loose dress with a cutout hemline. The denim pieces seemed a bit bulky next to the loose fitting dresses, but the dresses on their own could carry the weight of the collection with the thought out structure and well-chosen prints.
A practical, powerful work wardrobe was the focus at Wayne. Beautiful jewel tones are seen bundled into two-in-one outfits, such as a wrap dress that gives the appearance of a long vest with a button down. A tulip petal skirt provided a flirty choice to the already very pleasant collection.
A kaleidoscopic effect of colors punctuated Saloni Lodha’s collection which drew inspiration from the Uzbekistan city, Samarkand. Lodha let the colors do a lot of the work, choosing simple, wearable silhouettes that could make any woman feel comfortable wearing bright prints.
The focus at Shrimps were the faux-fur pieces astutely color blocked with vivid hues and animal print.”The Flinstones” served as inspiration for this vibrant and playful collection.