Best of The Runway NYFW FW15: Day 3

À Moi

What did Alejandra Alonso turn to for inspiration this season? “Antique and international [cookbooks]…the illustrations, fonts, colors and even the different languages. Also kitchen uniforms and décor—plaids and gingham patterns on table linens, together with chef’s jackets and aprons.” (via WWD) The neutral coat with an enlarged lapel looked like a modern Julia Child’s outerwear choice. A pretty cream dress with a faint diamond print reminisced of kitchen tiles askew, or perhaps a pretty tablecloth. The collection looked modern and innovative, yet it remained cozy and inviting throughout. A well struck balance!

Adam Lippes

Adam Lippes knows how to hide a few surprises in clothes that at first look straightforward. This season was no different. Inspired by the photographer Philip-Lorca diCorcia, Lippes set out to impress with detail and exploration. Just like in diCorcia’s photographs, what may look simple and plain actually has a level of detail on has to notice by really looking and observing.

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang wants to toughen you up a bit this season. Creeper boots, black on black on black, and studs as far as eye can see. On the subject of eyes, make sure to have them covered with scraggly hair. Wang isn’t messing around. Heavy metal studs embellished the knitwear and dresses, but as if that weren’t sufficient, Wang sent out fine mesh chain mail dresses trimmed in black and more studs. It sounds harsher than it looks actually. All the pieces were beautifully rendered and remained true to their humbler sportswear beginnings.

Lacoste

A fun mix of coats with shapes outlined like patchwork, with plenty of high slits to create movement were interspersed with old track-wear trusties. Coats arms hung limply beside the models’ swinging arms which peeked out in the holes cut in the armpits. The color scheme lingered around the retro ’60s and ’70s, with bright reds companying camel tones. Sweatshirts spelled out “René”, the brand’s eponymous founder, and “Tennis Anyone?” Fittingly so, with the short tennis skirts in Lacoste white and green. The tennis inspired attire evolved slowly into body-con dresses and beautiful two piece ensembles, i.e. white knit top hanging low in the back and miniskirt bottom, with athletic stripes trimming the edges.

Mara Hoffman

Sleek knits flowed effortlessly with color with help from tan see-through over and underlays. Particularly strong was the flattering micro-polka dot dress with a boat neck. The jumpsuit after it? Not so much. Hoffman stated, “This collection is about keeping your feet on the ground, hands in the sky, and allowing the force to be with you at all times.” And this so totally is the best of all worlds and a harmony between the ethereal and grounded.

Moncler Grenoble

What started as a humble outdoor gear brand producing sleeping bags and tents showed its interpretation of a bride and groom ensemble hitching at a high altitude wedding. That’s quite a long way from its beginnings. A special Valentine’s Day presentation led the French-Italian brand to present the looks as a his/hers (or his/his, or hers/hers) duos. Complementing attire for skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, or simply frolicking in the snow came generously trimmed in fur. The gear looked fit for the most aspiring athlete despite its embellishments. Considering it was just last year that the Grenoble based brand outfitted yet another successful K2 summit expedition (its first was in 1954, the first time K2 was conquered), my confidence in the craftsmanship is high.

Nonoo

“I was inspired by the complexity of the woman as seen in Tracey Emin’s exhibit ‘The Last Great Adventure Is You,'” Misha Nonoo stated when describing her fall collection. While exploring the idea, Misha played with proportion, seemingly unhinging traditional notions of the female body. The silhouettes both enveloped the models’ bodies and took on an architectural meaning of their own. Some of the strongest pieces, however, remained in the simple and streamlined approach, such as with the ankle-grazing cashmere coat.

Noon by Noor

Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa stuck to metallic tones this season, rolling out a series of perforated leather looks alongside reflective foil pieces. The designers kept the silhouettes simple and loose, instead focusing on the texture and fabric. A particularly standout oversize coat came draped over a simple black shift dress, while a silver brocade cape coat swished on top of a metallic silver dress. The impact of the colors and fabrics made enough of a statement without over-complicating things with complex designs. To cap it all off, a series of ethereal evening gowns paraded down with embellished sparkle and utmost fluidity.

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