Humberto Leon and Carol Lim wanted to deliver the message of sustainability, purity and airiness in their spring collection. To spell it out more clearly, they enlisted the help of a repeating recording “Kenzo would like to remind you that there is no Planet B. Protect what’s precious.” While the clothes themselves didn’t seem to bear elements of eco-friendliness, the designs jived well with the message. Roomy silhouettes allowed for breathing and aerodynamic movement with geometric cut-outs. Colors kept to the lighter side of the spectrum, suggesting an energetic flow.
Impeccable attention to detail and confidence defined Phoebe Philo’s collection. Kate Bush served as inspiration, and it makes sense seeing that Kate exudes self-confidence. Separate pieces achieved perfect harmony in their silhouettes, contrasting loose shapes with stricter tailoring. A wide-knit dress served as a beautiful highlight in a very inspiring collection.
The typically monochromatic designer enthusiastically showed his commitment to a light and playful mood by announcing it via his opening look: “#colorful is the new black.” Simoëns isn’t someone who wavers in his convictions. Shunning black and white only completely, he sent out colorful mosaic embroidery, color-blocked pieces and fluid bright prints. The predominant silhouette was the ’60s shift dress, although a number of loose dresses proved stunning with a light and airy crepe billowing in the wind.
Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons
These are the clothes of a quiet artist, a person with so much color inside they don’t need to adorn themselves in it. The thought jives well with Kawabuko’s dressing style, which this line represents. Gone are the wild palpitating reds, instead lifeblood pulses inside while loose silhouettes in dark colors ruffle with smart details.
Vanessa Bruno opted for peace and quiet, revealing easy looks that go from days in the city to night and weekends on the shore. Cool colors work together to provide a calming effect while gentle draping billows next to gently tailored trousers and jackets. A light unfinished edge provided some easy notes to a number of denim pieces.
Clare Waight Keller delivered a trusty set of wistful, pure Bohemia in an impromptu dedicated to the design house founder Gaby Aghion. Keller wanted to let the fabric speak for the work, and the result was a smooth and flowing collection with some utilitarian pieces. Gauzy babydoll dresses adorned with crocheted lace signaled for effortless summers while tailored two-piece ensembles were casual enough for a garden party. The beauties were the billowing goddess dresses, beckoning at the perfect Chloé customer.
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
It was gangsta’s paradise for little rich girls on Rabih Kayrouz’s runway. Chic classic silhouettes received an update with bold colors, punchy details and rich fabrics that gave off a tough-girl attitude. The sportswear inspired silhouettes of flowy silks and rigid leathers packed a mean punch.
Alessandra Rich focused on drama, elegance and utmost luxury. These are the looks you can lounge in while counting money and feeding your Persian some caviar. Sounds a bit unrealistic? Yes, this isn’t about everyday casual, but if you want to channel a silver screen siren on a special occasion, you’ve found your collection!
The serene spaces of the deepest jungle emerged in bamboo print and leaf-shaped embellishments. A Japanese theme slowly evolved, with origami folds and clogs resembling geta. The languid dresses allowed for tranquility among the more youthful looks.
You’ll see a lot of Kazemir Malevich when looking at the Akris show. The Russian artist had a profound influence over Albert Kriemler’s designs this season. Kriemler admired the way the artist “reduced any realistic art down to a black square.” And so, we see a play with squares and rectangles at Akris in an effort to capture the power in Malevich’s paintings. Sheer panels interrupted patches of fabric, forming negative space shapes of their own while a palette of pink nudes and whites benefitted from bold color interruptions.
The most delicate lace was the star of the evening at Givenchy. Loose, airy silhouettes trimmed up with the addition of the lace and soft leather separates, while the more structured looks benefitted from metal grommets adorning the edges. A few armorlike looks combining all the elements looked strangely reminiscent of the famous Balmain dress Kylie Jenner and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley wore this past year. The resemblance aside, Givenchy delivered looks that were risque yet oddly wearable.
The luxurious silhouettes rang the ’60s bell at Martin Grant, complete with a mod color palette. The most successful looks were loose and airy, such as the polka dot jumpsuit that fluttered as the model walked.
Structured tailoring with a sense of tranquility is Zaid Affas’ game. A paper fabric provided softness to an impeccably folded jacket, whose elbows billow back from the upper back. Simple column gowns are given A makeover with romantic draping, forming cowl-necks that are both sculptural and flowing. A simple color palette of black, white and tan aided with the calmness.