If NYFW, LFW, and MFW taught us anything so far, it’s that trends don’t necessarily overlap across the board; but, when they do, you better believe you’ll be seeing a lot of it on the streets in the next few months. Get ready for a lot more animal print in your life, specifically leopard and snakeskin!
Marianna Rosati treated leather with an utmost luxury, manipulating it into a soft and supple fabric-like material that swayed with movement yet maintained its structural integrity. Laser-cut tops in soft shades glistened under the lights, and silky loose bottoms provided additional fluidity where the leather pieces left off.
Fortunato Depero’s painting ‘Rotation of Dancer and Parrots’ made it onto Piazza Sempione’s designs this season. With the artwork serving as background, well-tailored pieces true to Sempione roots flourished with 3D embellishments and embroideries. The color palette remained pure to better enhance the crisp shapes.
The softness of a boudoir wardrobe fused with a blooming garden in the most beautiful way at Beccaria’s presentation. Sleek, elegant silhouettes received a chiffon and tulle treatment with sheer layers and soft watercolor blooms. Silky slips peeked out underneath the sheer pieces, allowing for a realistic interpretation of the looks. This was a successfully elegant affair meant for further mingling at refined parties.
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico & Stefano looked to Sicily’s historical roots, specifically 16th-18th centuries, when referencing the Spanish influence. An army of classic hourglass silhouettes in red, white and black ranged in embellishment and embroidery. The sacred heart served as a primary recurring theme on accessories and dresses while carnation blooms capped off the show with a polka dot fusion. The season’s trends played out in capes outlined with sashaying fringe and the few denim pieces encrusted in jewels.
Microprint, color blocking, mesh and roomy silhouettes dominated the looks at Massimo Rebecchi.
What started as a procession of simple loose silhouettes slowly evolved into a flurry of floral prints, patchwork embellishments and explosions of color. Marni chose to build on structured yet completely loose pieces not by manipulating the chic vibe of the structures, but by managing the print enough to provide more movement and fluidity, based on design.
An emphasis on outerwear and sleek, luxe silhouettes played nicely with the updated wedge Salvatore Ferragamo sent down the runway. Cool colors and camel tone jackets and capes were accented with a subtle fringe. Light ribbing made just enough of a statement.
It was a summer explosion of colors and flowers in frolicking girly silhouettes. 3D applique petals, crystal encrusted necklines, and the lightest summery crocheted knits were only interrupted by the geometric designs and tight beading.
Although a number of sheer pieces seemed less than practical, John Richmond introduced an assembly of looks with wearable appeal. Silhouettes focused on loose comfort, and despite all the lace and powerful prints in bright colors, the looks all had a sporty vibe.
Jonathan Franzen’s book ‘Freedom’ inspired the songbird motif at MSGM this season. Dainty prints of flocks adorned the pieces. Stunning sequins reproduced another flight of feathered friends on separated and shift dresses. The colors remained muted, and the silhouettes were kept clean and streamlined. The birds did all the singing.
Earthy tans and stark white shapes provided a casual and luxurious contrast. Body skimming silhouettes in muted burgundy radiated a confident femininity, while structured bomber jackets toned down the volume by allowing the look to be more casual. Outerwear received most of the attention as loose high collar coats both with short and long hemlines swayed with razor-sharp precision.
Au Jour Le Jour
A clear high school volleyball vibe, complete with shiny embellishments, pleated metallic skirts and polo collars paraded down the court/runway at Au Jour Le Jour. Sequined denim ensemble brought Ashish to mind, while amplified cute prints of ice cream cones and bento boxes rolled with the sticker obsessed trend. Several sheer numbers didn’t seem too practical, but the sweet sequined dresses over sheer button downs allow for dress-up during daytime hours.
Loungewear inspiration quickly evolved into a slinky glamour parade of gold fabrics and sequins playing with blue denim and leopard print. The focus clearly veered toward the young club-hopping market with an inordinate amount of cool appeal. ‘60s shift silhouettes amped up the volume with shimmering metallic insets while footwear remained casual-cool with no heel in sight. A puffy bomber shaped vest and jacket in a copper burgundy hue looked as if several pool noodles got fused together. A monochromatic lineup of leather moved freely and graduated the youthful start to a more refined market that’s still interested in maintaining freshness. Several fur pieces walked down the runway, which is no surprise seeing as several designers have taken a liking to fur for their Spring/Summer collections. Standouts included a crop top and zipped billowy skirt with a black and white fur gilet.