Precision tailoring and understated fluidity hedged this season’s feel at Gabriele Colangelo’s presentation. Colangelo chose to focus on fabric and technique refinement, sending out dresses with ultra-precise and clean lines. Laser cut t-shirts clung like a maximized mesh, and a loose silk dress interwoven with copper wire glowed a shade of the most beautiful sunset. Although a few items seemed a bit stuffy, the overall effect of the show was fresh and new.
Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence in Southern France, or simply the Matisse Chapel, served as inspiration for Thommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi this season. Sheer chiffon and organza encouraged light shining through stained glass comparisons. Bright colors mimicking those of the chapel windows directly followed the tamer whites and ivories evocative of the walls. Despite such an apt reinterpretation, some looks seemed a bit out of place and rigid thanks to the fabric choices.
Emilio Pucci’s design house has been providing loose, flowing frocks and colors to put any festival-going flower child to shame since the 1970s. It’s no wonder that this season, one of hippie vibes, suede and fringe, the designer Peter Dundas excelled at the trend. Although at Pucci this isn’t a trend as much as a way of life. The breeziest looking tent dresses flowed with an astounding amount of attitude and the prettiest rainbow of colors. Despite being showstoppers and capturing all attention of the audience, the impeccably sharp tailoring of pant suits in bright pops of color proved that all techniques and shapes received equal attention. This is a collection that many an it-girl is craving already.
Gilded copper draping, shiny fringe and leopard print gave an ode to a high-flash woman who’s attempting to tone down a bit. Girly silhouettes with hiked up hemlines dominated, but the real standouts were loose pants paired with structured tops.
Bright, unobtrusive hues and loose crisp silhouettes received a special treatment with sculpted folds.
Loose silhouettes and splashes of contrasting hues married together in checkered patterns. A geometric motif re-emerged with toned down neutral tones at the end of the line-up.
To be as dainty as a ballerina! There are few images that capture quintessential femininity and strength as well as the swan en pointe. Tomas Maier chose to draw on the theme with ease in mind, free of the constricting tutus and painful pointe slippers. The ballerina off-duty perfectly captured a relaxed vibe and casual attitude. With a neutral, unobtrusive palette, Maier sent out the coziest of looks. Fluffy cardigans, soft separates, and low-heeled footwear was capped off with a few evening looks that the most ease-focused ballet enthusiasts would be proud to wear out to a high-end function without sacrificing comfort.
The sea and sand served as an influence for Giorgio Armani. The seascape was mystifying as Armani focused on soft shades to capture sand dunes eroded by tides and wind, and used fringe and layers of pale organza to evoke the fluidity of under-water movement. To cap off the aqueous presentation, a gently draped evening dress emerged clad in a waterfall of sparkling crystals, making the awe of the calm seas so much more alluring.
Focus on the future ruled the runway at Mila Schön with the show titled 2019. An ethereal palette of muted bright counterparts fused together with stark whites and ivories. Rounded architecturally inspired shoulders and crisply tailored folds lent severity to offset the sweetness of the colors.
Leave it to Cavalli to capture the ease of mixing prints and laid-back silhouettes with bright accents of color without sacrificing the luxury of harmony. Roberto Cavalli is well-versed in the art of color-mixing, and this show was no exception with long billowy frocks bearing animal print and psychedelic patterns. Beautiful lace adorned many of the more tailored looks in a monochromatic palette. It was fresh and casual yet completely refined and luxurious. That’s Roberto Cavalli’s game.
Sometimes, things just need to be pretty for their own sake. Sara Cavazza Facchini tied together a theme of high-shine and glamour with shimmery threads interwoven into the fabrics. The silhouettes were relatively soft and feminine, although some looks inspired a less luxurious vibe by suggesting blocky cheap gilded baubles than old-school gold.
With Carol Rama serving as inspiration, Antonio Marras allowed for a beautiful eccentricity that riffs on the fusion of rejection and fascination. Despite lifting Rama’s color schemes and similarly composed prints, Marras kept the subject matter tame choosing instead to let the details speak with embellishments and 3D detailing. The silhouettes were loose, with the skirts focusing on movement and the tops maintaining a soft rigidity.
An androgynous silhouette emerged at Jil Sander, now under Rodolfo Paglialunga’s watchful eye. The influence came from Swiss photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach and her menswear focused wardrobe. Emphasis on minimalism and restraint ruled the lineup of stark whites, maroons, and several shades of blue. Skirts were stiff, and tops were crisp and layered, with a school uniform motif steadily ruling the line-up.