Inspiration: Japanese art form KINTSUGI- repairing broken pottery with powdered gold, silver, or platinum-dusted lacquer to create something utterly unique and new.
The energy behind rejuvenation and relentless strength immediately sprang to mind as I scrutinized the beautiful dresses and married the designs to the inspiration behind them. The revitalization of the broken and the marred using polished details elevates them to the realm of distinction. The clothes glowed with detailing that defines unique beauty naturally occurring in the world, and Cohen expertly embraced the idea of imperfection in his S/S ’16 collection.
Jonathan Cohen has a very firm grasp on what his client wants: ease and edge which can be carried into the finest Michelin restaurant without anyone doubting the polish behind the woman. Raw, fraying edges complemented the luxurious fabrics and couture techniques like French seams and covered buttons.
The show was all about discovery and re-imagination. A deconstructed jacquard cocktail dress featuring the custom crushed white petal and smashed multi-porcelain plate print illuminated a nipped waist and full, playful skirt despite the lack of whale boning. The back revealed a dainty criss-cross of fraying edges. A slash trench in black acid linen was a standout, especially paired with the kintsugi intarsia legging. A similar design offered in dusty desert stone (a taupe tone) looks like it can carry the weight of spring and fall seasons, making it a very practical choice for the multi-tasking woman.
The collection grounded itself in refinement and time-honored technique without compromising its youthful edge.