Milan Fashion Week trend report:
– ‘70s are still in full swing
– Flower power is imminent next spring in the form of Bohemian music festival dress
MaxMara’s 1971 campaign featuring Anjelica Huston served as an influence at this season’s display of looks meant to evoke youthfulness, strength and confidence. Micro-floral print was a bit busy and unnecessary considering the brand does neutrals so well. Mid-calf skirts and silky blouses gave a relaxed feel. The real standouts, however, were the long coats that MaxMara is so famously known for.
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Armani delivered a wave of soft blues ranging from muted navy-gray to cornflower. The collection consisted of young and casual pieces, delivering a laid-back vibe to go along with a preppy personality. It was a solid and wearable line-up, despite a couple of flops like overly ruffled poof dresses and rigid metallic pieces at the end.
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Despite relegating himself into the ranks of “normalcy,” Burani managed to pull together a bevy of looks that exceed the every-day wear style factor. The devil is in the details in this case: drop waist dresses with athletic sparkle yet floor-skimming length, immaculately cut out grid skirts and reflective silver paneling. While the clothes might have lacked buzz-worthy pizzazz, it certainly made up in its ability to elevate an everyday closet.
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Karl Lagerfield and Silvia Venturini Fendi hit the fast lane with this collection of moving elements and sleek techniques. Luxury inter-meshed with practicality, with fur coated in a light film, making the material more resistance to rainy days on the road. Orchids flourished on A-line dresses, fur bomber jackets and popping out of a cropped leather jacket in a 3D effort. Panel inserts worked into shift dresses provided movement through pattern and design. The collection saw the introduction of denim and jodhpurs walk down the runway. This is certainly a lineup with movement, and the direction is toward a youthful market.
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Graceful and timeless elegance infused the clothing at Uma Wang’s show. Floor-skimming loose silhouettes and a palette ranging from burnt sienna to cerulean blue lent a rustic simplicity. There were no fleeting trends or quick bursts of excitement to keep the adrenaline up around the pieces. Instead, the focus was on a steadiness and calmness that comes with confidence.
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Cavalli unleashed his print-master fury on the runways with sexy, billowy gowns, ‘70s inspired silhouettes and two piece ensembles made for flirty young off-duty socialites recovering from a partying in Ibiza.
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Dean and Dan Carter cleverly introduced a collection with mass-market appeal without sacrificing their eccentric approach to design. Bright colors popped on voluminous, fluffy poofs and ruffles dominated short dresses. The approach was youthful and walked right on the line between casual and dressy.
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Ennio Capasa referenced ‘60s music festivals when designing this season’s collection. Suede ensembles and flowy handkerchief hems glided down the runway in dark hues ranging from black to royal purple. The sleekness of the brand was slightly lost in the business of the detail, but many separates can perform well on their own outside the runway.
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Oh to be young and free! Anna Molinari pegged the concept of free-spirited wanderings of the 20-something year old by turning to music festivals in their full glory. Peasant shirts and hiked up airy hemlines played in the fields of grass alongside floral prints and yards of lace. Unfortunately, most of the collection seemed a bit cliché. The real stunners came in the form of silk-chiffon layers with glistening embroidery reminiscent of the 1920s, flowing over denim cut-offs.
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Miuccia Prada dismantled aristocratic attire only to reassemble it into a fragmented reality hinting at survival and transformation. A lineup of coats with overtly exposed stitching donning the seams hinted at the idea of persistence. Frayed edges trailed loose threads in a nod to deterioration while the sturdy, sumptuous fabrics rebelled against the idea of extinction, focusing on endurance and continuity.
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Artemis served as inspiration for this season’s collection focused on fusing two opposing sides into a harmony. Crisp military-inspired dresses (dipping into Artemis the hunter) played alongside wispy dresses and sheer fabrics (Artemis the nurturer and virgin). Fiona Cibani indicated in her show notes the play between two sides of one woman, “one strong and warrior-like; one sensual and feminine.” Flowing organza skirts and precision-tailored jackets aside, the brand stayed true to its roots with smart coat dresses.
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A line-up of watercolor infused crisp cottons and linens evolved with a sense of tranquility and calm. Loose silk silhouettes and simplicity ruled the lineup that preferred to draw on the feel of a sea-side Greek village and its range of blues.
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No explanation needed here! This is all about fun, fun, fun. With “Barbie Girl” blasting, life-sized pink dolls made their real-life runway debut in bubblegum pink and long blonde curls flowing. Everyone from jet-set Barbie to fitness Barbie flashed a smile. A line-up of formal-wear closed the show that made all the adults as giddy as a five year old.
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